Fusion blends sophistication with pan-Asian cuisine

By Richard Allen
Morning News Restaurant Reviewer

For too long in Savannah, Asian food meant Chinese, usually a buffet. Then came Japanese, and sushi became as ubiquitous a dish as tiramisu.

Then came pan-Asian cuisine, introduced at Typhoon, which now has been reincarnated as The Monkey Bar/Fusion.

It looks like quite of bit of money was spent on the redecoration, but the feel is still the same: open and airy. The bamboo texture still remains on the walls, despite the addition of paint and fabric throughout the room.

The bar looks like fun, and had several customers on the night we visited. While there were a few people in casual attire, the atmosphere calls for a more sophisticated dress.

Appearance counts a lot on the plate, too, but flavor still comes first. The shrimp spring roll ($8) is a good example. Three finger-thin rolls filled with shrimp are served in a pyramid, tied with chives, sitting over a bed of mixed greens dressed with a lemongrass sauce. The rolls are crunchy on the outside and tender on the inside, and delicious.

Singapore garlic shrimp ($8) are served in individual endive leaves, garlicky and spicy, but not hot. An apple pineapple pepper sauce provides heat if you want it, and a melon and endive salad provides the cooling.

The Five Spice crispy duck ($17) is a hearty dish. The marinated duck, dusted with rice flour, is served sliced with the leg standing tall in the center of the plate. Tender and moist, with the luxuriously crispy skin, but not too fat.

Asian fettucini noodles ($14) have several layers of flavor, accented by shrimp and Asian sausage. Leftovers heat up well.

Side dishes are available and delicious, but not necessary. We tried the duck fried rice ($9), and took home enough for lunch the next day.

It's not likely you will want a dessert after this, and the only one offered the night we were there, praline cheesecake, just didn't go with the dinner we had.

Service is friendly. What our waitress lacked in experience she made up for with enthusiasm.

A piano bar and other live music provide ample reason to spend time at the bar after dinner. You might even take a spin with your dinner partner.

Reviewers do not notify restaurants in advance of their visits. The newspaper pays for all meals.

Stepping Out

What: The Monkey Bar/Fusion

Hours: 4 p.m. until, Tuesday-Saturday

Address: 8 E. Broughton St.

Telephone: 232-0755

Reservations: Recommended

Credit Cards: Yes

Bar: Yes

Wheelchair Access: Yes

Nonsmoking Area: Yes

Dinner for two, without wine: $70-$85

Ambience: A

Service: B

Food: A